Brakes installion on explorer

How to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes on 11, 12, 13 Ford Explorer. Check out this video to learn many of the places a clunking sound may come from on your vehicle's front end! Our how-to videos have helped repair over million vehicles. Track Order. Free Shipping My Cart. Proceed To Checkout. Video Library. Share on:. Copy URL. Reinstall the differential cover with a new gasket combined with an anaerobic sealer.

In my experience, the anaerobic sealer combined with a new gasket provides the best seal. I have found anaerobic sealer only at NAPA auto parts. Follow the procedure in most repair manuals for the torque sequence of the differential cover.

Install the rotors over the axle and parking brake assemblies. Make sure to have the rotors turned before they are installed. Even if a donor truck has very low miles, such as my case, the rotors can become very badly warped. If the rotors are brand new, I would still have them turned. In other words, make sure the rotors are true before installing them on the vehicle. Install the caliper assemblies with pads onto the mounting brackets.

Tighten the two bolts that hold the caliper in place on each side of the vehicle. Be sure not to over tighten these bolts, they can be broken easily if not careful. Attach the rubber caliper brake lines to the calipers. Attach the rubber brake hose from the left caliper hose to the main brake line feed. Attach the steel housing brake line to each caliper and replace the mounting bolt that secures the bracket on top of the differential housing. Note: The 95 and newer axle housings have a mount to secure the rubber caliper hose, however the 94 and earlier housings do not have this mount.

In this situation, I cut a piece of strap steel about 2 inches, drilled an offset hole, and tacked welded this mounting bracket to the axle spring perch. From here I was able to secure the rubber caliper hose.

See the picture below. The steel strap can be obtained from most hardware stores. If you do not have access to a welder, an exhaust shop can tack weld the bracket on later.

Attach the disc brake parking brake cables to mounting brackets and attach the end of the cable to the parking brake levers. Finish mounting the cables to the original locations using the original hardware.

Attach the intermediate parking brake cable. Double check all brake line connections to ensure they are tight.

Completed left side assembly. Install the tire and wheels. Before lowering the vehicle, adjust the parking brakes by inserting a flat-headed screwdriver into the adjuster hole on the backside of the mounting plate. Rotate the screw to spread the parking brake shoes. Be sure not to spread the shoes too far causing the parking brake to be too tight. Lower the vehicle off of the jack stands.

Remove the fill plug on the differential housing and fill the differential with recommended gear oil. A level surface is necessary for this step Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid. Bleed all four brakes, starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder working towards the closest. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Be absolutely certain that the fluid level of the master cylinder does not get too low.

Do NOT loosen any brake lines. This will expose the pushrod for the master cylinder. In order to maintain a good pedal feel after the conversion, the rod must be adjusted to push further into the master cylinder. With the closed end of a 9mm box wrench, hold the pushrod, and with a 7mm box wrench adjust the nut on the end of the pushrod.

This procedure is trial and error and will require you to test drive the vehicle in order to get a desired pedal feel. See picture below. Final Note The braking power on the new disc brake setup is very impressive. This is with carbon metallic front pads and rear disc brakes. Brakes are not an item on your vehicle to be overlooked! Be sure to recheck all brake lines for leaks after the conversion is complete as well as readjust the parking brakes after about miles of driving.

I also found it necessary to readjust the master cylinder pushrod after about miles of driving. If anyone has any comments, questions, concerns or additional information about this conversion, please feel free to email me so we can update this documentation.

They are provided for use at your own risk and discretion. What good is alot of power if you don't have the brakes to bring those horses to a hault?