The vinyl is prone to electrostatic charge and will attract dust very easily but is hard to clean. Lay your frame down flat with the gutter facing upwards. Lay the vinyl on the top and flatten it out. You hold the vinyl to the frame using spline rubber pushed into the gutter. But, first, temporarily attach the vinyl to the frame using the wooden pegs.
This will make pushing in the rubber spline piece easier and yield a better, flatter result—the flatter the vinyl is, the less visible it will be. The aim is to stretch it flat, but not so tight that it warps the frame.
A good technique is to put the first peg in the middle on one side tucking the excess vinyl under the frame as you go , then in the middle on the opposite side, then do the same for the last two sides. Next pull at the corners and peg from the centre pegs out to the corners. Start at a corner and work along the shortest edge first.
Use the spline roller to push the spline into the gutter so that the vinyl is held firmly in place. Remove the pegs as you go. When you have made your way around the entire frame, trim the remaining spline off. Trim off the excess vinyl with scissors, but leave a tab of vinyl at the centre of each side. These tabs can be handy for adjusting and removing the frame from the cavity later on. Make sure the frame is clean and grease-free so the tape adheres well. Wipe down with some methylated spirits if necessary.
Allow to dry properly before applying tape. You can trim the excess later. Remove one side of the backing paper from the double-sided tape and stick the tape to the frame, making sure there are no gaps where the corners join. Before removing the other backing paper, press down with the back of a spoon to ensure the tape is firmly attached to the frame. Stick the film to the tape, repositioning and stretching the film to ensure there are no wrinkles attached to the tape.
Wrinkles and slack within the window frame are not a problem. Most people find it easiest to roll up the film, stick one edge and gradually unroll it down the frame. Remove any remaining wrinkles with a hairdryer by starting in a corner and working methodically across the window, taking care not to touch the film with the dryer. Trim off any excess film beyond the line of the tape with sharp scissors or a craft knife. Stick the window and door foam to the outer edge of the frame, working your way around the entire frame.
It should fit so that the foam is pressing firmly against the window reveal, sill and head, creating an airtight seal. If you are making frames for corner windows, foam gap filler rod can be pushed into the corner to take up the space between the two frames so that they sit firmly in place.
It is available in various diameters to suit different windows. Ralph Johnstone visits one in Melbourne. Raked ceilings with exposed beams may look nice, but they are near-impossible to insulate. James Stapledon explains how he insulated the ceilings in his home to greatly improve thermal performance. Not-for-profit organisation that enables, represents and inspires people to live sustainably in their homes and communities. Author: Glenn Newman, Lisa Rime. A finished frame in position. Image: Lisa Rime.
Many Australian houses feature aluminium-framed windows, which perform poorly thermally. But performance can be greatly improved with a simple DIY project. DIY insulating films One solution is to apply a DIY double-glazing film to the window to create an air gap that provides good insulation. After measuring all four sides of the cavity, cut your frame pieces to size.
The plastic corner pieces push inside the aluminium frames. Images: Lisa Rime. How it works This approach uses thin vinyl tablecloth sheeting or window film as a double-glazing layer on the inside of the glass window. This method of frame construction will work for windows that: are no more than 2. Measure the coarse hole and make sure to use washers. Make sure it is the right size and shape. Use a measuring tape to verify that the window matches the packing slip or invoice. Also, check for damage such as cracks, crevices, or twisted frames.
Rounded corners can usually be bent with pliers. Lastly, double-check the nail fin to make sure it is securely attached to the window unit.
This is the main window fixing element. To confirm the window square, diagonally measure the window in both directions. If the dimensions are unequal, do not install as it means the window is not square. Remove the packaging from the window unit and wipe the frame clean with a cotton cloth. Examine the lock to be sure it works properly.
Leave the device in a locked position for installation. Among the easiest DIY projects is sealing gaps. Apply a thin layer of aerosol glue to the rough hole of the window frame. Do not spray the glass. After turning on the spray glue, apply a 3 x 3-inch adhesive piece that flashes in each upper corner of the frame.
The window sill tray drains water from the window and helps prevent water damage. It is three-sided and made of sheet metal. The window should sit on the shelf. There should be an extra inch to batting outside the rough hole. Check the uneven hole in the square when the window is open. Use a spirit level to check the level and riser opening. The coarse hole has double studs for reinforcement. If there is a building boundary around the rough hole, pull 3 inches away from the rough hole.
Apply glue spray 3 inches from the edge of the swingarm panel and 6 inches along the sides of the rough hole next to the swingarm panel. Close the corners of the keypad with an adhesive collar. Cut the flashing to the size of the window sill bowl, attach it to the bowl and attach the plastic drain filter, if available. Check the window and set it right side up and right side out.
Then look for the position of the tear holes. If your window is positioned correctly, the tear holes will be pointing outwards.
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